Reptile Care and Husbandry

The best captive environment simulates the animal’s natural habitat. Huge diversity exists between species regarding where they live and how they eat. Mimicking five basic requirements are paramount to successful care for the pet/captive reptile:

• Shelter/Safety (Housing)
• Temperature with a temperature gradient (Heat)
• Full spectrum/ultraviolet light (Light)
• Food (Diet)
• Water/Humidity

Housing

The enclosure should resemble the natural habitat of the animal as much as possible. This varies greatly depending on the origin and habits of the particular species – arboreal, terrestrial, tropical, burrowing, desert, aquatic, or semi aquatic. Enclosures must be escape proof with secure doors and openings. This cannot be over-emphasized! Snakes in particular are escape artists and cages need to have latching or sliding doors. Wood is less ideal than glass or Plexiglas as it is porous and more difficult to clean and disinfect. Screen or wire can be used with caution to avoid trauma from sharp edges. Depending on the species and temperament of individuals, housing animals together may or may not be a good idea. A veterinary exam and quarantine period of 60 days should precede any introduction of new animals into the midst of previously owned individuals.

The best substrate, or flooring, is one that is aesthetically pleasing and easy to clean. Newspaper is ideal in many situations since it is inexpensive, non-toxic and easy to maintain, although, it is not very attractive. Indoor/outdoor carpet is more appealing and relatively easy to clean. Multiple pieces can be cut to fit so one is always clean, dry and ready to be used. Sand and potting soil mixtures can also be used. Caution using corncob, wood chips or shavings, and sand as these can get stuck in the reptile’s mouth or cause intestinal obstructions if ingested. Obstructions seem to be a particular risk in juveniles housed on sand of any kind.

Cage ‘furniture’ is necessary to provide visual security, a den/seclusion, and natural climbing structures relative to the needs of the individual. Clay pots, flat rocks, plastic and natural plants, branches, hollow trunks, plastic tubing, and manufactured dwellings are examples. Furniture should include  textured items to rub against that will aid in ecdysis (shedding of the skin).  Avoid sharp or excessively abrasive materials including lava rocks that could damage tender new skin.

Heat

Appropriate set-ups need to take into account the preferred optimal temperature zone (POTZ) and natural diurnal (day/night) habits of the individual. It is extremely important to know the POTZ of the animal being kept. It is also extremely important to use thermometers to monitor and maintain the temperature within the POTZ. Keep in mind the POTZ is a range. A temperature gradient is needed from the upper to the lower end of the POTZ. The warmer side is where the heat source is positioned, often with climbing material for the animal to get closer and bask.

Heat can be supplied in various ways. Most reptiles are basking animals and therefore radiant heat from above is ideal. Radiant heat is provided by bulbs and ceramic heat emitters (ceramic flood bulbs that only give off heat). Choose the appropriate wattage bulb and adjust its distance to achieve the POTZ. Bulbs that emit white light must be turned off at night to provide a day-night cycle. Heat tape and heat mats are available for under tank use. Space heaters are acceptable for larger areas and like any heat source must be used with care as to not be a fire hazard.

Use all heat with caution and know the temperature at the hottest and coldest areas of the enclosure by using thermometers. Allowing the animal to get too close or allowing the heat source to get too hot are serious problems that do cause burns and sometimes fatalities.  For most individuals housed indoors, providing heat during the day and having it go off overnight is acceptable as this is similar to natural variations in day/night temperatures experienced in the wild. As a general rule, sick and healing animals should be maintained toward the upper end of the POTZ not allowing nighttime temperatures to drop significantly.

See additional warning about overheating in the lighting section.

Lighting & Calcium/Vitamin D Metabolism

Light is important for two reasons. First it provides a day/night cycle which is likely important for all species. Secondly, light of certain wavelengths (ultraviolet/UVB), and commonly referred to as “full spectrum” light, is necessary for calcium metabolism in many species.

The requirement for ultraviolet /full spectrum light is variable, being particularly necessary for basking lizards and turtles while less critical for nocturnal species and snakes. The relationship of calcium to light is through the skin and vitamin D. Vitamin D is referred to as the sunshine vitamin because UVB/ultraviolet light rays from the sun convert vitamin D into its active molecule within the skin. Since the function of vitamin D is to allow intestinal absorption of calcium, exposure to adequate UVB rays is needed for normal calcium metabolism. UVB/ultraviolet light are those wavelengths just shorter than visible light. Not all light bulbs emit UVB rays, hence the need for special bulbs.

Light is often intertwined with heat and brings another factor to the equation. Sunlight is the gold standard for truly full spectrum light plus heat. Sunlight can provide full spectrum light only if un-obstructed by glass or Plexiglas. This means exposure to the sun from behind a window or glass enclosure only provides light and warmth, it will not aid vitamin D/calcium metabolism. This also means artificial lights cannot be obstructed by glass or Plexiglas making screen lids the norm. Use extreme caution placing animals outdoors in direct sun, especially inside aquariums, as heat builds up like the inside of a car. Heat exhaustion kills!

Three categories of artificial light bulbs are recommended for providing UVB: mercury vapor, metal halide, and fluorescent. The only good bulb at providing all three elements of daylight, heat, and ultraviolet/full spectrum light is the mercury vapor lamp.  These are readily available under different brand names, T-Rex® is an example. Drop off of UVB intensity over time is not a concern with mercury vapor lamps and do not need changed until the bulb burns out. These look like flood bulbs and screw into an incandescent fixture. With mercury vapor, one bulb does it all!

Metal halide lamps provide good to excellent UVB output and bright light. They do not get very hot necessitating an additional heat source such as a ceramic heat emitter or another light bulb. Metal halide bulbs can also be used until they burn out. For metal halide information go to: www.reptileuv.com

Fluorescent bulbs emit moderate to good amounts of UVB and give off white light. Similar to metal halide, however, they don’t provide much heat. There are many of these bulbs marketed for reptiles and vary in the strength of their UVB output. These can have an advantage over mercury vapor lamps by casting light over a larger area of the habitat, but most baskers spend a lot of time directly under the basking light anyway. It is also important to note that the fluorescent type bulbs must be replaced about every 6 months as their UVB emission fades. Historically all these were straight tubes and fit into long fluorescent fixtures, but versions are now made to fit incandescent screw fixtures. Smaller bulbs will decrease the area over which the light shines.

As with all the UVB bulbs, the closer to the bulb the greater the strength of UVB.  Create a distance that is not so close that it will cause burns, but not too far away either - remember thermometers! Meters to measure UVB are available for testing the actual output strength of the bulb and to compare bulbs and are a good idea for any herp owner. As well, automatic timers make lighting and heating more fool proof and easier.

Diet/Feeding

Reptiles can be broken down into carnivores, herbivores, and omnivores. Insectivore is a subset of carnivore and includes many of the lizard species. The omnivores are fed as both carnivores and herbivores utilizing a combined feeding strategy.

It is not uncommon for a primary herbivore to enjoy some insects and primary insectivore to eat vegetables. This is why it is important to know specific details of the species being cared for. Research each animal’s specific needs to provide optimal nutrition.

If feasible, vary the food items being offered for more balanced nutrition and enjoyment. Snakes are often fed virtually the same diet lifelong, graduating from smaller to larger prey items. It is recommended to feed snakes pre-killed prey to avoid injury. Aquatic turtles will generally only eat in the water.

Frequency of feeding also varies greatly. Most animals should be fed daily, especially immature lizards and turtles. Snakes are fed once every 5 to 14 days. Snakes should not be fed just before or during a shed when their eyes are cloudy.

HERBIVORES:

Tortoises and lizards such as the green iguana, desert spiny tail, and chuckwalla are herbivores.  Lizards and turtles that are omnivores including bearded dragons, box turtles and sliders, also get fed a diet rich in vegetables and fruits.

Much variety exists for the herbivore. Dark leafy greens make up the bulk of their diet. Mustard greens, collards, kale, romaine and leaf lettuce (avoid head lettuce such as iceberg), bok choy, radicchio, spinach, broccoli, green beans, peas, alfalfa sprouts, escarole, zucchini and yellow squash, parsley, lima beans, yams, corn, carrots, beet greens, dandelion flowers and greens, Swiss chard, bell peppers, Brussels sprouts, and mixed vegetables are all appropriate. Grasses and hays can and should be fed to larger tortoises. Timothy and alfalfa rabbit pellets can also be fed to herbivorous reptiles.

Fruits and berries can make up part of the diet but should be limited to approximately 10-15%. Such items include raspberries, melons, strawberries, blackberries, peaches, banana, mango, kiwi, apple, blueberries, and cherries.

CARNIVORES:

All snakes, as well as, many lizards and some turtles are carnivores. Much variety exists as to what food items are fed to and eaten by carnivores. These animals eat whole prey items such as mice, rats, rabbits, chicks, insects, feeder fish, earthworms, and slugs. Other protein foods can be offered to carnivores such as dog food, fish flakes, turtle pellets, trout chow, cooked egg, primate chow, and small amounts of cat food. Avoid or limit frozen fish which may lead to a nutritional deficiency and never feed carnivores a diet of only meat (such as hamburger and chicken breasts) as this will lead to severe nutritional deficiencies.

Whole prey animals must be given balanced and complete rations to ensure they become a well-balanced meal whne fed to the reptile. Feeder mice, rats and chicks should be pre-killed (often pre-killed frozen, then thawed) prior to being fed to the reptile. Offering pre-killed prey is strongly recommended to avoid suffering of the prey animal and prevent injury to the reptile.

Insect prey must also be fed a balanced diet prior to being fed to the insectivorous reptile. Known as gut loading, this process involves offering nutritious foods to insects prior to them being fed as prey. Commercial gut load diets are available for crickets and can be dry formulations or gel-like. It is preferred to use dry formulas and offer water separately. Do not use bowls of water as crickets will drown, instead use soaked paper towels or sponges to give crickets daily water. Some of the crickets will die and the cricket container needs regular cleaning.

Do not leave live uneaten prey in the reptile’s enclosure. Severe bite injuries may occur from mice/rats and insects that are left unattended and become hungry themselves. An exception can be made for worm insects offered from a bowl in which they cannot climb out.

OMNIVORES:

Omnivore dietary rations are comprised of ingredients from both the herbivore and carnivore categories detailed above. Specifics vary widely with respect to percentages and items from each category depending on the particular reptile specie being fed. Common omnivore reptiles include box turtles, sliders, bearded dragons, water dragons, lizards, and blue tongue skinks.

Particular dietary requirements must be researched for each type of animal. The aquatic turtles tend to be carnivorous as juveniles and become more omnivorous with maturity. Aquatic turtles should be fed in water as it is their normal way of eating.

Supplements

Experience with feeding reptiles has led to the current recommendation of supplementing vitamins and minerals to many of the lizard and turtle species. Supplements are usually not necessary for carnivorous animals, including snakes, monitor lizards and snapping turtles that eat whole prey such as mice, rats, chicks, and rabbits. It is very important, however, to supplement insectivore, omnivore, and herbivore diets with calcium and other minerals plus multivitamins. Use powder supplements not spray products.

Supplement needs and offerings are different for growing juveniles vs. mature adults. During growth, calcium requirements are the greatest and therefore increased amounts are added to the diet of young animals. With maturity, calcium needs diminish and limited amounts of calcium are added to adult rations. Too much calcium in adults can cause health problems.

For juveniles, alternate between two products: a multivitamin/mineral supplement and a calcium/vit D supplement. Use each of these 2-3 times weekly– so most meals are supplemented. Sprinkle and mix the powdered supplement onto veggies and shake insect prey in the powder prior to offering as food.

For adults, only one multivitamin/mineral supplement which also contains some calcium is necessary. This is added to the diet about twice weekly for herbivores and shaken onto insect prey 2 – 3 times weekly for insectivores. Remember, insects should also be “gut loaded” in order to provide optimal nutrition.

Supplements are typically not needed for aquatic turtles that are fed some amount of commercial turtle or fish food.

Water

Water is a nutritional requirement for all animals and, in addition, is a vital environmental/habitat requirement for many reptiles. Reptile habitats range from totally aquatic to desert. Water requirements are just as important to know as the dietary needs for each type of reptile kept. Monitor humidity in the enclosure with a hygrometer.

Aquatic turtles need an appropriate aquarium with good filtration and frequent (weekly to monthly) water changes. It is recommended to de-chloraminate municipal water after a water change to prevent irritation to eyes. A haul out area or platform is essential for aquatic turtles to bask.

Some chameleons and snakes require a high humidity environment to replicate rain forest conditions. This may be accomplished with water misting from spay bottles, drip systems, and automatic water misting systems. Most chameleons enjoy running or dripping water.

Most terrestrial and arboreal reptiles should have a water source in their enclosure, referred to as a soak pit or pool, designed so that it allows for safe entry and exit. Some arid species do not require a soak pit and get all their water from their diet. Most lizards will not drink from a standing water source instead they will lap water droplets from plants and cage furniture after misting. It is also suggested to sprinkle water onto the greens and veggies for herbivores.

A lot of information, but important knowledge for the herp owner to learn and follow.  These pointers will go a long way in ensuring that your reptile lives a full and happy life.