Introduction:

The large constricting snakes are very beautiful creatures that capture the attention of most people whether it be in a positive or negative way. Most of these reptiles will make good pets although there is the occasional animal that can be quite unreliable and even downright nasty. It is therefore important to choose a snake based on its temperament in addition to its health and beauty. The size of these snakes vary considerably, ranging from 3 feet (small ball pythons) to 18 feet or more (large female Burmese pythons). Their growth is most rapid in the first 2 - 3 years when sexual maturity is reached. After this, the growth rate gradually slows but they continue to grow throughout life. Many can live 20 - 30 years or more. Pythons originate from Africa and Southern or Southeast Asia whereas Boas are from Mexico, Central, and South America. Owning a large snake requires responsibility for housing, handling, and feeding. Never allow one of these snakes to form a complete circle around your neck.

Housing:

Being a responsible snake owner starts with an escape proof enclosure. Stacking books on top of the vivarium lid is not adequate and is asking for the animal to escape. An enclosure with the sliding top or front or a hinged lid and locking mechanism is necessary for housing snakes. The size of the enclosure is relative to the size of the snake. Keep in mind that most pythons and boas grow rather quickly and require substantial facilities. Buy or build an appropriate enclosure that has a locking mechanism and prevents escape.

The ground material or substrate should be something that is easily replaced or cleaned. Newspaper is often ideal but for a more attractive cage the use of indoor/outdoor carpeting will also work. Hiding material and decorations should also be simple and easy to remove for cleaning such as pieces of wood, cork board, and clay pots.

A shallow dish of fresh water is supplied for drinking and should be of sufficient size for the snake to soak in as an aid to thermoregulation and shedding. When the snake is of sufficient size the bathtub can be used as a soak pit once or twice weekly. Misting with a water bottle is also enjoyed by many snakes. Clean the cage and water dish as needed but at least on a weekly basis.

Temperature:

Correct temperature is vitally important for the well being of all reptiles. It is required for normal activity and physiologic functions such as eating and digesting food and good immunity against disease. There is some minor species variation but for boas and pythons the temperature during the day should be maintained at 80 - 90 degrees F. The temperature in the vivarium should vary from a basking area at or very near 90 F to 80 - 85 F at the opposite end of the enclosure. The proper use of thermometers can not be overemphasized. Don't guess when it comes to temperature, be responsible and use thermometers.

Providing the appropriate temperature can be achieved in many different ways. Heating pads or strips may be used under one end of the vivarium. This and all heating devices pose the potential threat of becoming too hot and causing serious life threatening burns. Again, heed warnings and use thermometers appropriately. Follow manufacturers directions and warnings and also think fire safety. Fiberglass heating pads can be purchased and may offer an ideal basking area for large snakes. Hot rocks can be used with care although they have been notorious for causing burns and are quickly outgrown. Light bulbs are appropriate in many instances for delivering proper temperatures.

Red heat lamps or ceramic heating elements that screw into a light fixture are preferred over typical light bulbs. This is due to the fact that they can be left on at night without emitting a white light therefore achieving a day/night cycle. Space heaters may also be used with great caution to avoid overheating. It is best to use thermostats with most methods of temperature control. Snakes are often lost to mistakes or carelessness in maintaining temperature.

Feeding:

Rodents including mice, rats, and rabbits are the mainstay diet of captive snakes, although chickens are fed on occasion. As a general rule, chickens are discouraged from being fed since there is a potential for transmitting salmonella.

Feeding regimens should be based on the condition of each individual animal so exact recommendations are difficult. In general, from hatching to 1 to 1 1/2 years of age gradually go from one mouse every 4 - 5 days to two mice every 4 - 5 days. From approximately one year to three years of age switch to rats and gradually increase from one rat every 5 - 7 days to two rats every 5 - 7 days. After this, one or two small rabbits are fed increasing to larger rabbit(s) every 7 - 10 days.

Please keep in mind that these are only guidelines and individuals should be treated as such and fed accordingly. It is also important to realize there can be considerable size variation between species and individuals. Feed prey items that are approximately the size of the snake's largest diameter. It is better to feed two smaller rodents as opposed to one that is too large. It is usually recommended to feed dead prey instead of live prey to help prevent injury to the snake and lessen the suffering of the prey. If live prey is offered and not eaten in a short period time it must be removed to prevent its feeding upon the snake. It is also recommended to feed freshly killed prey so the vitamins it contains within the digestive tract don't diminish and are utilized by the snake. It is feasible to freeze freshly killed prey then thaw just prior to feeding. Vitamin and mineral supplementation is typically not necessary.

Feeding can be somewhat risky and care must be taken to avoid injury. Snakes attack prey based largely by sense of smell. For this reason don't handle prey items then stick your hands in front of the snake. This is asking to be bitten. Before offering prey, make sure you know where the snake is in the enclosure. If the snake is near the door, move it out of the way with a snake stick. When the snake is safely out of striking distance, place the prey in the cage with tongs or toss it to an appropriate area of the cage. Take these same precautions when removing uneaten prey. A board or other suitable shield can be placed between you and the snake when introducing or removing prey. Interact with the animal at other times than just during feeding so it doesn't automatically associate attention with a meal. When dealing with larger snakes it is advisable to have someone nearby or at least within calling distance in case of emergency.

Conclusion:

Certain diseases are commonly seen in these animals and therefore an examination of newly acquired snakes is warranted. This exam includes checking a fecal sample for the presence of intestinal parasites. Following these guidelines will help ensure a mutually beneficial relationship between you and your snake. Together we can dispel myths and fears about these fascinating creatures of beauty and intrigue.